Shady Goings On

N: Nuts

Yes nuts indeed! Not the sort you eat, although the energy would be great on a long route.
Nuts (picture opposite) are one type of protection for rock climbers, they are used to limit the consequences of a fall.The nuts are placed in cracks the rock face and the rope is attached.
There are many different types of nut available, each is suited to a different size or shape crack but they all have one thing in common: their shape means that as force is applied the nut will wedge itself further into the rock face. This relies on the correct use and placement of course.
Nuts are best used in medium to narrow cracks that taper in the direction of the force. For parallel cracks hexes or SLCDs (spring-loaded camming devices) could be used.
If you fall on a nut and it becomes well jammed, you might need a ‘nutter’ to help it out.

Check out the Rock Climbing A to Z Series

See also (offsite):
SLCDs
Choosing passive protection
Buying your first trad protection?