Doors
From GTM Workshop
The Libra uses two glassfibre doors with steel inner frames to support the glass and winding mechanism. These frames, bolt directly to the doors via four Allen bolts, which can be seen from inside the car. The doors are hinged on their front edge using two top hat nylon bushes. These bushes fit directly into the glassfibre moulding. The bottom pivot sits directly on the body sill and is adjustable in all directions without removing the door. The top pivots bolts directly to the door upright and is adjustable in a similar manner to the bottom pivot. In this way the door can be fitted and then adjusted without removing any interior trim to obtain the best fit. The Libra utilise the standard Rover Metro latch on the rear face of the door this latch is operated by a purpose designed outside door button and internal door pull. The door is prevented from opening too wide by purpose designed door straps fitted between the door and the monocoque. The door winding mechanism is the standard K Series Rover Metro fitted without modification and using its own glass channel, the door glass is a special glass provided in the kit.
Doors assembly
Assemble the Rover Metro winding regulator channel to the bottom of the window glass T1001/2. The channel should be fitted to the bottom of the glass as indicated on the assembly drawing.
Remove the rubber insulator from the centre of the Metro window channel and glue onto the bottom of the Libra window glass in the position shown on the assembly drawing. Any contact adhesive is suitable for this task. Place the Libra window glass onto a clean tabletop with the bottom edge slightly protruding over the edge of the table. Starting from one end gently force the window regulator channel over the rubber and work along until the complete channel is fitted snugly up to the rubber glued to the bottom of the glass. It is important that the channel fits tightly up to the rubber on the bottom edge for the correct operation of the regulator.
Take the door inner frame T500/1 and cut suitable length of window channel rubber T518 to fit into the channels either end of the frame that the window glass runs up and down. Glue the rubber channel into the channels in the door inner frames using a suitable contact adhesive. Fit the door window glass complete with its bottom channel into the door inner frame and manually move the glass up and down the channel making sure that the glass moves freely A small amount of petroleum jelly can help the smooth operation of the glass within the rubber channel. Remove the window glass from the door inner frame and place aside. Mount the K Series Metro window regulator to the door inner frame in the position as shown on the assembly drawing using two 6 millimetre 15 millimetre long socket cap screws and washers. Mount the short (120 millimetre long) channel to the inner door frame in the position shown on the as-sembly drawing using the standard Rover Metro five millimetre nuts.
Fit the door regulator top stop T521 to the door regulator using a 6 millimetre 18 millimetre long socket cap head screw washer and nylon nut. Fit a winding handle to the regulator and check that the regulator winds up and dowry Satisfactory without jamming. Wind the regulator to a position so that the operating legs are just below the bottom arm of the inner door frame and remove the regulator by unscrewing its 6- millimetre retaining bolt.
Slide the door glass into the inner door-frame to a position where the channel approximates to the position of the operating arms prior to removing the regulator. Now slide the operating arms of the regulator on to the bottom channel attached to the glass from the rear end of the door at the same time ensuring that the small wheel of the regulator arm fits into the small channel already attached to the door inner frame. Position the regulator so that the two 6 millimetre bolts can be replaced and mount the regulator.
The window glass should now wind up and down the door in the frame without jamming. Do not at this stage attempt to adjust the position of the small 120-millimetre channel or the position of the eccentric top stop. This will be adjusted once the frame is assembled into the door.
Put aside the two inner frames regulators and glass and assemble the locks and hinges into the glass fibre door shells. Using the full size template included in the assembly manual mark the inside recessed shut face of the door where the Rover Metro latch will fit. Using the other template follow on from the previously marked hole for the striker onto the inside face of the door using the template provided in the assembly manual. Spot and drill the three 6 millimetre clearance holes in the door face.
Using a jigsaw or by chain drilling cut out the aperture for the striker. Using the Rover Metro door latch as a guide clean up the hole to allow the latch to fit snugly. Do this work carefully, as it will be seen on the completed car. Neatly radius the edges to obtain a neat appearance. The door latch can now be mounted to the door shell using three 6 millimetre button socket screws 20 millimetres long with washers. Cut a 25-millimetre hole in the centre of the recess for the external door key.
This hole can either be cut with a hole saw or by chain drilling and filing. File the two anti rotation notches in this hole.
Due to the increase thickness of the glass fibre compared to a steel shell the notches in the K Series Rover Metro door lock have to be wider to enable the retaining clip to work satisfactorily. Mount the door, lock in the vice and carefully saw the door lock barrel to increase the width of the notches to approximately 4/5 millimetres. The door lock can now be assembled to the door shell using the standard Rover Metro spring retainer.
Using the indentations of the outer side door shell. Pilot the two 5-millimetre clearance holes required for the door handle and open out to 5-millimetre clearance. Using the door handle T514 as a template mark and drill a hole approximately 28 millimetres in diameter to enable the door button to come through the outer shell. The door handle T514 and the door handle mechanism T511/2 can now be mounted to the door shell using two 5 millimetre nylon nuts and washers. Make sure that the door handle mechanism fits fleshly against the internal glass fibre face of the door and if necessary clean the face up using production paper.
Assemble the door button T515 through the door button carrier T513 using a 6 millimetre, socket cap head screw 10 millimetres long and washer. The carrier can now be mounted to the door handle mechanism mounted to the door using a 2 millimetre diameter split pin 35 millimetres long. Do not turn the ends of the split pin at this stage, as it will have to be removed in the assembly of the door rods Check at this stage that the door button swings in and out of the door freely without binding. Holding the door striker T520 move it in and out of the latch assembled to the door and familiarises your-self with the working of the latch. Take a 260 millimetres long piece of the door rod wire T523 and form a joggle at one end to fit in the pawl that operates the door lock mechanism in the door latch, Remove the three securing bolts from the door latch and remove it from the door and fit this joggle into the door lock pawl with the wire coming up through the pawl away from the outer shell of the door. Refit the latch to the door.
Place the rod over the top of the outside key mechanism and mark the position of the hole in the plastic lever arm of the door key mechanism. Again remove the door latch mechanism from the door; remove the door rod and form a right angle at the end as previously marked approximately 15 millimetres long. Reassemble and make sure everything works satisfactorily using a key from the outside of the door and manually inserting the door striker.
Take a 280 millimetre long piece of the door rod wire T523 and form a joggle in the end to fit into the pawl that operates the door latch. Remove the door latch and fit this joggle into the pawl in a similar manner to the lock rod with the wire coming up away from the outside face of the door. Reassemble the latch into the door and very carefully mark the position of the required joggle that the door button holder T513. Make sure that the door button is in its most outside position when you mark this position. Now remove the wire and form another joggle at right angles to the previous joggle to fit through the door button carrier T513.
Remove the door button carrier T513 from the door handle mechanism T511 by removing the 2 millimetre split pin and fit the joggle through the hole provided. Refit the door button carrier to the door handle mechanism and check that everything works satisfactorily. It is extremely important that there is no excessive play in the mechanism and it is worth at this stage taking some time to ensure the correct operation. When completely satisfied splay out the ends of the split pin. The door latch and the door lock should now work satisfactorily Provision has been made for a strip spring to be used between the door button carrier and the door lock mechanism that in practise this has been found to be unnecessary.
Fitting the door-frame complete with glass to the door. Mark the centre of the four recessed inner frame mounting points and pilot drill. Open out with a 6 millimetre, clearance drill. It is now necessary to extend the outer glass line on mould the door shells to enable the glass to wind up and down. A split line on the mould indicates the line of the outer glass. This shows up as a raised line on the door shell. Extend the rear line to within 3 millimetres of the end of the door and form a slot for the glass to wind up through 10 millimetres wide. Do this work very carefully as it shows on the exterior of the car. Were the glass runs up into the small triangular panel at the front of door, on which the wing mirror mounts, it is necessary to trim the moulding in a similar manner to the rear edge of the door, using the mould line as a guide and opening up the slot to 10 millimetres. as at the rear The glass wants to run as far up into the triangular panel as possible to minimise the difficult condition with the door seals when shut on the car As with the rear do this work carefully, as it will be seen when the car is complete.
Prior to fitting the door glass weather seal T517 it is advisable to fit the door inner frame complete with glass to the door using the special 6 millimetre stainless steel counter sunk screws and washers. Check that the window winds up and down freely and that the glass has a clearance between the outer door and the outer face of the glass particularly where the weather seal will fit. Adjustment can be made to the fitting of the glass by inserting washers between the door frame and the door outer skin. Once you are satisfied that everything seems satisfactory remove the frame.
Trim the door glass weather seal TO517 so that it is the correct length from the back face of the door to the small triangular wing mirror panel. Clean the inner face of the door shell and lightly sand the inner face on which the door weather seal is to be glued. Glue the door glass weather seal T517 to the door shell T104/5 using "super glue".
Fitting the standard K series Rover Metro door mirror to the door shell. The two mounting stalks approxi-mately 10.5 millimetres in diameter have to be shortened on the standard Rover K Series mirror to a length of approximately 13 millimetres from the outside inner face of the mounting flange. These can be easily cut with a junior hacksaw. Open out the inner hole in these mounting tubes to 5.2 millimetres to a depth of 15 millimetres. Now tap these holes, 6 millimetre metric fine using a standard metal tap. Check the thread by screwing in a standard 6- millimetre bolt.
The arm that normally projects into the car so the door mirror can be adjusted from inside the Metro has to be removed using a hack saw at a point approximately 10 millimetres from the spring retaining washer. The wing mirrors cannot be adjusted from inside the Libra.
Where the wing mirror mounts to the door outer panel mark the centre of the boss and pilot with a small drill. Now with a 30 millimetre, diameter hole saw, drill out the central part Of the mirror boss. Two 10.5 millimetre holes now have to be drilled on approximately 41 millimetre centres to enable the mounting tubes to come through the outer skin of the door moulding. When drilled these holes just break into the surface of the, 30 millimetre diameter hole previously hole sawed.
The wing mirror can now positioned on the door with the two mounting bosses projecting through the door and being accessible from the inside of the panel It may be necessary to slightly adjust the 10.5 milli-metre clearance holes depending on the exact size of your particular moulding.
Now place one of the door mirror mounting sleeves T522 over one of the mounting boss tubes projecting into the car and with a 15 millimetre long set bolt and large 6 millimetre washer, secure the wing mirror. The other door mirror mounting sleeve can now be fitted over the other tube and secured in a similar manner. Tighten both bolts equally to secure the mirror to the door shell.
The door inner frame complete with its glass can now be assembled to the door shell using the four stainless steel 6 millimetre screws and special washers Pilot drill the centre of the indent of the front of the doors where the door hinge bushes T510 fit Open out these holes to, 13 millimetre diameter. Press fit the two door hinges bushes T510 into the door outer shell and tap home with a suitable soft mallet.
Using door hinge bottom T512/3 as a guide locate the two indents on top of the sill which correspond to the two larger holes in the door hinge bottom plate and spot these two centres with a pilot drill. Open out these two holes to 6 millimetre clearance. Bolt on door hinge bottom T502/3 to the door sill through the door sill to door hinge bottom spreader T504 using two 6 millimetre 25 millimetre long socket screws and large 20 millimetres (washers). The door hinge bottom should now by loosening the screws be able to be adjusted in all directions around the 6 millimetre bolts.
Using door hinge top pivot plate T508 as a guide fined the corresponding three indents in the vertical part of the door aperture in the monocoque and spot the holes. Open out these holes to, 6 millimetre clearance. Bolt T508 to the vertical face using three countersunk socket screws 25 millimetres long washers and nylon nuts. Mount the door hinge top pivot T506 to the top of the door girlie plate T508 with door hinge top spreader T509 on top using two 6 millimetre 12 millimetre long socket cap head screws and washers. By slackening the screws the top pivot should now be able to move around freely about the 6 millimetre screws. Remove the door top pivot. Place the door onto the bottom pivot and into the aperture. Screw on the door top pivot as before. Now adjust the top and bottom pivots to obtain a suitable fit on the door. The height of the door at the door hinge end can be adjusted by placing standard 10 millimetre washers on top of the bottom door pivot. With the door glass wound down into the door adjust the two hinges so that the outside shape of the door follows through onto the sill line and rear face of the door. Use the small air scoop which follows through from the bodywork onto the door to give you a guide as to the height Of the door at the rear and of course the top line of the door. Spend time making sure that you have the correct position of the door before continuing with the door assembly.
Open and close the door into the door aperture and mark on the door shut face the height of the door striker by referring to the position in the door. As a guide the door striker should be approximately 70 mil-limetres horizontally from the outside face of the door shut. When you are satisfied you have the correct position pilot and drill the door striker hole to 12 millimetres clearance. Mount the door striker T520 to the monocoque T100 using the 12 millimetre by 1.25 pitch nyloc nut and washers.
Open and shut the door many times to make sure that you have the striker in the right position and that the locks are working correctly and that the door is lining up with the outside of the car. lt will be more than likely be necessary to file the door striker position and adjust the door striker to get the best possible fit Time taken now to get the best possible fit is well worth while as this is the part of your car that you will be regularly opening and closing in its use.
Wind up the door window to its top position and adjust the window regulator top stop T521 by slackening the 6 millimetre bolts and turning them eccentric to obtain the best fit with the glass with regard to the top of the door aperture. Now cut some half-inch thick pieces of wood and glue them to several positions around the door window seal. Shut the door and adjust the position of the door glass by packing out the bottom mount of the door frame T5OO/1 with 6 millimetre washers. Where the door glass comes to the top of the door mirror triangle is the most critical position. Take great care to get the best possible fit at this point.
Remove the wood and replace with standard Rover Metro door seal and check and readjust the window position. Here again time spent now will be well rewarded in the use of your car. With care it has been possible to make the works prototype totally weatherproof at this point.
