Radiator mould radiator and pipework

From GTM Workshop

Build Manual Build Sequence Monocoque Front End Rear End Doors Finishing Donor Components Rover Metro Donor Components Rover 220/420 Components Build Sections Battery Beam end covers Bonnet and front spliter mould Boot bootlock and hinges Brake lines Carpets Dashboard cover Doors Engine cover moulding Engine frame Engine and auxiliaries Exhaust Front suspension Gear change Handbrake lever cables and calipers Door panels Trim Headlight covers Heater and pipework Lights Part trim panels option Pedal box and master cylinder Perspex screens rear and side Petrol tank filler neck and cap Pipes and services through the tunnel Radiator ducting and splash moulds to monocoque Radiator mould radiator and pipework Rear suspension Roof panel Seat belts Seats and runners Separate instrument option Setting up the car for the road Soft trimming Spare wheel mould and spare wheel Steering rack and column Throttle pedal Trimming hard panels Windscreen and rear bulkhead screen Windscreen washer bottle pipes and jets Wiper motor and blades Wiring Wiring loom insruments and fuse box 1800 gear change p.g.1 gearbox 1800 engine mountings 5AS alarm units Hydraulic clutch 1800 engine steady Spyder Supplement Top Seatbelt Mounting Hood Boot Engine Compartment Grills Stainless Steel Mesh

The Libra uses the standard Metro radiator complete with fan assembly the radiator locates using its four standard rubbers to the radiator mounting mould, which in turn bolts to the radiator ducting. In this way the air entering the front of the car is forced to flow through the radiator Rubber and aluminium pipe work takes the water from the engine through the tunnel through the radiator and back to the engine The radiator is mounted upside down compared to the conventional Metro with the cooling fan assembly on the right hand side. A radiator bleed pipe is used as on the standard Metro and is feed via rubber pipes through the tunnel to the header tank.

Assembly

Start the assembly by fitting the radiator to the radiator support TO1O8. The radiator is mounted upside down with the fan on the driver's side and the funny shape plastic legs at the bottom. The radiator is mounted on the standard K Series Rover Metro rubbers. Drill the 2 holes in the top face of the radiator support where indicated by the small indents with a small drill, open out to approximately 17-millimetre diameter with hole saw. Drill the holes indicated on the bottom mount in a similar manner and open up with a 17-millimetre hole saw. Now cut away the area indicated by the scribe lines on the moulding.

Fit the 2 standard round Rover Metro radiator mounting rubbers in the two top holes. Mount 2 square Rover Metro mounting rubbers onto the plastic bottom legs which will be at the bottom of the radiator, Slip the 2 top tubes of the radiator mountings through the 2 top bushes already fitted to the support moulding and then slide in the 2 bottom rubbers already attached to the radiator into the slots previously made in the support. The radiator should now hold itself satisfactorily in the support! Remove the radiator from the support moulding.

Drill two 6-millimetre clearance holes in the side flanges of the support moulding towards the top as indicated by the 2 small depressions. Drill two 6-millimetre clearance holes in the radiator ducting mould in the positions indicated by the small depressions corresponding to the holes previously drilled in the support moulding.

Now slot these two holes in an arc downwards to effectively allow the radiator to be adjusted up and down. When the spare wheel is fitted in the car you might find it necessary to pivot the radiator downwards to give sufficient clearance between the wheel and the radiator fan A little bit of fiddling here may well be required as it is very tight around this area.

Bolt the radiator support TO108 to the radiator ducting TO107 using two 6 millimetre bolts 15 millimetre long 20 millimetre diameter washers and nyloc nuts. Force the radiator support mould down onto the radiator ducting mould and drill three 6 millimetre clearance holes along the bottom lip of the support moulding to attach it to the radiator ducting mould. Bolt through with three 6 millimetre 15 millimetre long set bolts nylon nuts and 20 millimetre washers. These bolts should be positioned through from the underside of the car to minimise the amount showing under the car. The radiator can now be remounted into the support moulding attached to the ducting mould.

The radiator water flows from the radiator through aluminium pipes to the engine. These pipes are joined by standard Rover Metro rubber hoses, which are cut and modified by the builder. The rubber pipes are attached to the aluminium pipes using jubilee clips provided. On the driver’s side after the water has left the radiator via a rubber go-degree bend a portion of the standard Rover Metro radiator steel pipe is used so as to facilitate the bleed pipe. Cut the standard Rover Metro pipe to a length 210 millimetres long with the bleed pipe approximately 25 millimetres from one end.

The other entire inch and one-eighth diameter pipes are in aluminium and are provided within the kit.

Work through from the front of the car through the tunnel and to the engine. The 5 sixteenth rubber bleed pipe, which comes from the standard rover metro pipe at the front, goes through the tunnel over the petrol tank ant through the header tank on the driver's side of the engine. Mounting with the terminals closest to the monocoque.

The battery lead can now be fitted from the battery towards the driver’s side of the car and through the recess made in the moulding round through the tunnel over the petrol tank and through to the engine. The red positive lead attaches to the solenoid attached to the starter motor and the black negative lead runs over the solenoid and starter motor and attaches to the gearbox bolt immediately behind the starter motor.